Since its inception in 2002, Chanel's Métiers d'Art collection has been renowned for its dedication to traditional craftsmanship and outstanding design. Hangzhou, the launch location of the 2024/25 Métiers d'Art series, with its poetic scenery of West Lake, has become an inspirational canvas where tradition and innovation are intertwined. The series demonstrates Chanel designers' keen sense of culture and ultimate pursuit of details, and through the interpretation of craftsmanship, color and structure, it elevates the depth of design to the height of art.
Poetic colors and materials
The colors of the series are inspired by the ebony lacquer screen privately owned by Gabrielle Chanel. The image of West Lake depicted on the screen contains the unique charm of Chinese culture, including layers of peaks, long embankments, pavilions and misty auspicious clouds. These elements are reinterpreted by the design team in a modern and fashionable language, giving each garment poetry and power. Emerald green, pink and sky blue are the main colors, just like the morning mist and evening glow of West Lake. These colors not only capture the layering of the screen, but also show the delicate changes of light and shadow, adding a flowing vitality to the clothing.
In terms of materials, the classic Chanel tweed incorporates a multi-layered weave structure, which complements traditional silk and embroidery. The folding technique of Atelier Lognon, a century-old French workshop, imitates the structure of a folding fan, adding a three-dimensional sense and dynamic beauty to the clothing, demonstrating the brand's in-depth exploration of the combination of materials and craftsmanship.
In terms of design structure, the series cleverly combines the traditional features of oriental clothing with the modern silhouette of western fashion. The stand-up collar design and Chinese-style buttons of the cheongsam are the finishing touch of the tweed suit, injecting new vitality into the classic elements. At the same time, the use of pleats imitates the dynamic structure of Chinese folding fans, making the clothing show "rhythmic beauty" while walking. The combination of classic tailoring and innovative details makes each garment a crystallization of art and function. The envelope-shaped pocket design of the long coat is not only decorative but also practical. Tweed is infused with metallic threads to create a slight phosphorescent sheen, giving the garment an understated yet luxurious feel.
The art of embroidery
Another highlight of this series is the brand's embroidery craftsmanship. In embroidery design, the pattern of the ebony screen is finely transformed into embroidery details of flowers, landscapes and auspicious clouds, which are embellished on long dresses and suits, and sometimes even cover the entire garment, like a walking scroll. The historical and natural beauty displayed by the screen becomes the soul of every piece of clothing, integrating the charm of traditional Chinese culture into every stitch and thread. The Lesage embroidery workshop uses superb techniques to reinterpret the auspicious cloud and floral patterns on the ebony screen, creating a rich texture through layering of beads, metal threads and sequins. These details not only highlight the sophistication of the garments, but also give traditional patterns a modern artistic value.
In accessory design, the embroidery workshop also cleverly applies landscape imagery to small accessories. The bag’s design echoes the colours and patterns of the screens, with the combination of emerald green and pink evoking the gorgeous luster of the screen’s lacquer art. The smooth lines of the pillow-shaped bag and the crystal embellishments give the overall shape a soft and luxurious balance. In addition, images of stars and clouds are incorporated into jewelry such as earrings and necklaces, adding a dreamy atmosphere to the clothing. Each accessory is not only an aid to the clothing, but also part of the complete story, continuing the theme of the entire series through delicate design.
Combining the poetry of ebony screens, exquisite embroidery craftsmanship, innovative structural design and delicate color expression, the 2024/25 Métiers d'Art series transforms traditional culture into modern art and pushes fashion to a whole new level. After this show, one can’t help but look forward to how Chanel will continue to write the aesthetic chapter of tradition and innovation in its future designs.
