There were only three rows of seats in the shabby little plane. The small space, the old interior, and the few passengers added a touch of mystery to this journey. After several turbulences and flying over endless forests, a gray-white horizon appeared faintly outside the cabin. That was where the sea and the sky met. That was the destination of this trip – Haida Gwaii, an isolated archipelago located at the northernmost tip of British Columbia.
The plane landed on an open space shaped like a farm. The boarding hall was very small and looked quite like a barn. My friend's mother drove a pickup truck to take us to a small town called Messet, which is their home and one of the settlements of the Haida Aboriginal people.
North Beach
Overlooking the small village in Alaska
The road to Haida Gwaii was like stepping into a national park, with lush trees on both sides, only one road, and only a few houses visible at long intervals. Everyone knows each other, and they will wave and say hello from a distance, and if they are more familiar with each other, they will stop and chat. This is the unique way of getting along on this small island. Because of the long distance, people cherish the moments of meeting each other even more.
Masset Town
The first day's itinerary was to a primeval forest called Tow Hill, located in Naikoon Provincial Park. When the road gets rough and muddy and your butt can no longer stay fixed on the seat, you have reached your destination. What comes into view is a forest of huge cedar trees that are as big as lighthouses, each tree is big enough for several adults to hug. Almost every inch of land, including branches, soil and rocks, was covered with a layer of fluffy moss. The sound of waves and the crisp chirping of birds in the distance linger in the woods. The mottled sunlight shines on the ancient wooden trail. Time and space freeze at this moment, and my heart slows down as well.
Old Massett
The trail disappears halfway up the mountain and the adventure begins. My feet were stepping on the soft pine needles, and from time to time I would sink half a foot into them. I had to hold on to the small bushes with my hands to climb up. After walking for about half an hour, we arrived at the observation deck on the top of the mountain. From there you can see the entire northern coastline, with large tracts of woods outlining half a heart shape. Looking further away, there is a series of dark curves hidden in the sea fog. My friend said that is Alaska. The people of Haida Island have been looking at each other across the sea for thousands of years, and many myths originate from this.
Tombstone with sea glass
Early the next day we prepared to pick up sea glass, which is a unique entertainment activity on the island. The glass garbage that drifted across the ocean became the favorite decorations of the islanders after being polished by time and waves. The islanders would carefully collect the sea glass and put it in bottles or make it into wind chimes and hang them under the eaves.
Haida Gwaii Museum
That day, my friend's mother went out with us. She was a white person born on the island and married to a Haida man, who is my friend's father. The Haida people are a matriarchal clan, and women have a relatively high status in the tribe. Different clans are named after animals, common ones include ravens, eagles, bears and whales, etc. These animals are the most common elements on Haida totem poles. In Haida culture, there are no fixed boundaries between humans and animals; they can transform into each other and protect each other. This is also the most important value among many ethnic groups that believe in animism as their main belief, respecting nature and believing that all things have spirits.
I filled my pockets with sea glass and picked up some rare blue sea glass. After I went ashore contentedly, I discovered that there was a large cemetery on the shore. Perhaps it was because the sun was too bright, the tombstone facing the sea did not make people feel gloomy at all, but instead gave people an inexplicable sense of security. At the very front of the cemetery stands a huge wooden cross, about ten meters high. Its long shadow is cast on the cemetery, as if guarding the entire land. My friend’s mother told me that she loved this place, as it was a cemetery for generations of Haida people, and their family members were buried under this land.
When we walked into the cemetery, my friend's mother pointed to different tombstones and told me which relative of their family this was and what kind of personality and story they had. The tombstones are engraved with different names and times of life and death, telling the story of the rise and fall of this nation.
At this moment, I suddenly felt that death is not scary, it is just a part of the cycle of life.
Old Masset
Coastline Self-Driving: Whale Skeletons and Totem Poles
Messet is just one of the many islands in Haida Gwaii. That day we started from the town and headed down along the coastline from north to south. There are many destinations, scattered like pearls along the coastline.
We first went to a small jewelry studio, but unfortunately it was a closed day. At first, I wondered why it was closed on a weekday. Later I learned that the shops on the island are not like those in the city where they are open 5 days a week. It is up to you to decide when to open and how long to open. I walked out of the jewelry studio with a little disappointment. As I was walking on the side of the road, I suddenly caught a glimpse of a huge whale skeleton among the bushes on the left front door. I was so shocked that my mouth couldn't close.
Cedar forest in Tow Hill
In someone's front yard lies a nearly complete whale skeleton. I looked at the entire skeleton in disbelief, from the skull to the ribs and spine in the middle, all intact in front of me. After coming to Haida, I heard stories about whaling from Native Americans. People in some villages in Alaska hide whale skeletons in specific places to thank the whales for their gifts and the protection of nature. These places are called "whale cemeteries." I never thought that I would see a similar scene here, even in someone else's yard. Once again, I can't help but admire the wonder of Haida. There is still a lot of unknown culture here waiting to be explored.
A large cemetery on the coast
Reluctantly leaving the whale skeleton, our next stop was what I think is the most beautiful building in the entire Haida – the Haida Gwaii Heritage Center. This seemingly inconspicuous building is located in a bay, opposite a mini island. As soon as we stepped into the hall, we were shocked by the scenery in front of us: in the middle of the hall was a quaint and huge wooden sculpture; from the roof to the ground was glass, the sea shining like a sapphire appeared in the picture, and we could vaguely see the mottled totem poles on the grass outside, which was sacred and peaceful, and we instantly felt the spiritual power.
Agate Beach
The entire building is divided into two different exhibition areas. The left side fully displays the process of carving and painting totem poles and canoes. Dozens of meters long poles are placed flat in the room. Some have been completed and some are being made. One can imagine how many such poles the Haida people have made and how many seas they have crossed in the past few hundred years. The exhibition area on the right is more like a museum, with the Haida creation myth as its clue. Starting from female totem masks and tree carvings, it has gradually moved towards more symbolic totem poles, traditional costumes and ritual celebrations throughout history. My friend grew up in Haida. After seeing the exhibition, he shared, “This is the first time I have examined and understood my own culture so seriously.”
Tow Hill
What is displayed in this center is just a glimpse of the brilliant island civilization of the Haida people. More importantly, it is about the living people and the stories that are happening here.
The day before leaving Haida, we stayed in a small wooden cabin by the sea. Right behind the house was the beach leading to the Pacific Ocean. The sky gradually darkened, leaving only the hazy moonlight and the surging tide.
I sat on the railing, closed my eyes and listened to the sound of the waves and the wind. The sound contained distant calls, unknown civilizations, and the eternity of the moment.
