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"Fashion, to me, is both the caterpillar that lies dormant by day and the butterfly that dances at night." This timeless quote from Gabrielle Chanel's 1950s interview with the French newspaper Le Figaro became the core soul of Matthieu Blazy's second ready-to-wear collection at the helm of Chanel. Matthieu keenly captured the "contradictory aesthetics" in the brand's DNA and, through the Fall/Winter 2026 collection, explored how women seamlessly switch between practical rationality and dreamy allure.
A Dialogue Between Industrial Aesthetics and the Construction Process
Stepping into this season's show, the first thing that catches the eye is not a dreamlike French garden, but rather a vibrant, Lego-like construction site crane and giant gantry. Matthieu Blazy deliberately chose a cold, industrial metal skeleton as the backdrop, making the show resemble an unfinished building. This "construction site" imagery carries a dual metaphor: on the one hand, it pays homage to Coco Chanel as a fashion pioneer who boldly brought pragmatism and functionality to women's wear, breaking down gender and class barriers, as solid as the foundation stones of a construction site; on the other hand, it symbolizes that Chanel is currently at a turning point of reconstruction, viewing its vast fashion empire as building blocks, piling up the future brick by brick.
Contemporary Tweed Revolution: The Low Waistline
In terms of silhouette, Matthieu fully explored the metamorphotic metaphor of "caterpillar and butterfly." The first half of the collection featured long dresses crafted from ribbed knits with intricate textures, presenting a restrained, composed, and relatable posture, much like a larva. The second half shifted to lightweight and flowing silk threads, with iridescent sheens flowing as the models swayed, as if butterflies were freely dancing on a dance floor.
The most striking design feature this season is undoubtedly the reinvention of the "ultra-low waist." Matthieu deliberately lowered the waistline of dresses, coats, and suits below the hips, paying homage to the straight cuts favored by Coco Chanel herself in the 1920s. This is not a blind pursuit of retro style, but rather a way to give the classic Flapper Style a new sense of relaxation through modern mini skirts and pleated designs. The classic tweed suit has also undergone a material revolution. Matthieu interweaves synthetic fibers, lure, silicone, and natural tulle, and even developed a silk knit fabric inspired by the 1920s that is as light as air. Paired with a loose silhouette, this armor that empowers women becomes as unrestricted as a second skin.
Pomegranate evening bag with delicate pearl craftsmanship
In the accessories and footwear section, this season achieves a perfect balance between practicality and playfulness, with subtle homages to Coco Chanel's personal life evident throughout. The most talked-about piece is undoubtedly the extravagantly shaped, captivatingly lustrous "pomegranate-shaped evening bag." Matthieu has further extended and extended the flap design, originally hidden within the inner layer of the classic 11.12 or Classic Flap bag, creating a distinct three-dimensional effect. The quilting pattern on the bag body is now made of soft suede, inspired by the classic sofa in Coco Chanel's Rue Cambon apartment.
Furthermore, this season features "weightless" suits and accessories entirely woven from pearls, transforming ultimate luxury into a feeling of lightness. Footwear echoes the overall low-waisted proportions and dynamic feel, complementing the new "dynamic" buckle bags, allowing women to experience the absolute freedom of transformation, whether navigating the practicalities of daytime work or immersing themselves in evening social events.
"Fashion, to me, is both the caterpillar that lies dormant by day and the butterfly that dances at night." This timeless quote from Gabrielle Chanel's 1950s interview with the French newspaper Le Figaro became the core soul of Matthieu Blazy's second ready-to-wear collection after taking the helm at Chanel. Matthieu keenly captured the "contradictory aesthetics" in the brand's DNA and explored how women seamlessly switch between practical rationality and dreamy allure through the Fall/Winter 2026 collection. A dialogue between industrial aesthetics and the construction process. Stepping onto the runway this season, the first thing that catches the eye is not a dreamlike French garden, but a construction site crane boom and giant crane full of tension, as colorful as Lego. Matthieu……
