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How can a classic perfume remain captivating through the centuries? Guerlain offers its answer with the new Shalimar L'Essence. To celebrate the centenary of Guerlain's legendary fragrance Shalimar, *Supreme* magazine invited three key figures for in-depth interviews to explore the charm of this classic oriental scent and how to modernize it.
Ann Caroline Prazan, as Director of Art, Culture and Heritage, upholds and promotes Guerlain's brand spirit from historical and artistic perspectives. Thierry Wasser, as Guerlain's Chief Perfumer, shoulders the responsibility of preserving centuries-old fragrance craftsmanship, elucidating the epoch-making significance of the original Shalimar. Meanwhile, perfumer Delphine Jelk, with her exquisite skills, delves into and reinterprets the classic, creating a more modern and vanilla-infused Shalimar Essence.
Shalimar was created in the 1920s, a decade brimming with artistic flair and frequent olfactory revolutions. How does this fragrance reflect the era it lived in?
Ann: Shalimar was born in the 1920s, a time of artistic flourishing and constant change. Paris at that time was immersed in the fervor of the "Roaring Twenties," with people fascinated by Eastern culture and pursuing freedom and creativity. The creation of this fragrance is an epitome of the spirit of that era.
Shalimar was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921 and officially debuted at the Paris International Exposition of Decorative Arts in 1925. At that time, the Ballets Russes and stage designer Léon Bakst were spearheading a trend towards Oriental aesthetics. Shalimar was born from this wave of inspiration, representing boldness, sensuality, and freedom, perfectly echoing the contemporary woman's pursuit of self and independence. It can be said that it was more than just a perfume; it was an olfactory revolution, breaking all the rules of fragrance at the time.
There are rumors that Shalimar was born by accident. Is this true?
Ann: Yes, that's a very interesting story. In 1920, Justin Dupont, a chemist friend of Guerlain, introduced Jacques Guerlain to a new molecule called ethyl vanillin. It's said that out of curiosity, he added it to his earlier work, Jicky, as an experiment. Unexpectedly, this act sparked a revolution in fragrance. It was a serendipitous encounter between chemistry and inspiration that created Shalimar, a fragrance with an irreplaceable sensuality and warmth.
Shalimar's perfume bottles are as classic as their scents themselves. Could you tell us about their design and how they reflect the identity of the fragrance?
Ann: Absolutely. The bottle itself is a work of art. Designed by Raymond Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain's nephew, it was inspired by the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore, India—the same garden that inspired the Taj Mahal. The curved base symbolizes stability and eternity, while the blue-faceted cap, like a gemstone, represents love and dreams. To achieve such craftsmanship in that era was practically a technological miracle. From then on, Guerlain pioneered the tradition of "fragrance and bottle as one," a milestone in perfume history.
Are there any special stories about Shalimar?
Ann: There's a very interesting anecdote. When Ernest Beaux, the perfumer for Chanel N°5, heard that Shalimar contained so much vanilla, he joked, "If I put that much in, all I'd make would be pudding!" But Jacques Guerlain created art.
The scent of Shalimar has even inspired artists—like Frida Kahlo and Louise Bourgeois. Bourgeois's mother loved the perfume, and she later even created a piece inspired by it. Clearly, Shalimar is more than just a perfume; it's an emotional memory.
So, in your eyes, what kind of woman is a "Shalimar woman"?
Ann: She is a woman who understands love and dares to love. She is romantic and sensitive, yet possesses her own strength. The scent of Shalimar is like her: both soft and bold, sweet and mysterious. The warm notes of leather and the brightness of bergamot perfectly balance the richness of vanilla. This contrast is the soul of the "Shalimar woman." From Rita Hayworth to Ava Gardner, and Simone Signoret, many iconic women have been fans of Shalimar. As Jacques Guerlain said, "Spray on Shalimar, let your senses guide your soul."
Why is Shalimar so successful in the United States as well?
Ann: Because it was created at a crucial time when Guerlain was entering the American market. Guerlain launched exclusive products for America, such as fragrance powders and makeup lines. American women especially loved Shalimar's sexiness and exoticism, which even made its popularity surpass that of the brand itself. During World War II, American soldiers brought Shalimar back from France as gifts for their lovers, and that bottle of fragrance became a romantic symbol that transcended war and distance.
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Shalimar is hailed as the first oriental fragrance in history. How did this amber scent bring about a revolutionary change in the perfume industry?
Thierry: Before Shalimar, luxury perfumes were mostly dominated by rich floral or delicate chypre notes. Shalimar boldly used unconventional amber notes, bringing a major stylistic breakthrough: it no longer merely beautified or depicted nature, but transcended it, offering a more abstract and sensual expression. This fragrance, based on vanilla, balsam, and resin, ushered in a new era, allowing scents to evoke an atmosphere and emotion rather than simply depicting garden scenes. This abstract approach to creation profoundly influenced many important perfumes of the 20th century.
The use of ethyl vanillin at such a high concentration for the first time was a major innovation at the time. Why was this such a bold decision back then?
Thierry: Ethyl vanillin is far more potent than natural vanillin. In 1925, perfume making still relied heavily on natural ingredients, and such extensive use of synthetic molecules was almost considered "heretical." However, perfumer Jacques Guerlain boldly made it the core of his work, giving Shalimar outstanding longevity, remarkable sillage, and an unmistakable, unique personality.
Shalimar's amber fragrance achieves a delicate balance between softness and power. How is this "fragrance alchemy" accomplished?
Thierry: Shalimar's bergamot, vanilla, and leather create a unique olfactory signature that is unforgettable. This is all thanks to the use of contrasting notes: vanilla, ethyl vanillin, and balsams (such as benzoin and myrrh) bring a sweet and comforting softness and roundness; while resins, labdanum, and leather enhance the fragrance's longevity, giving it a deep power and sensuality. The most crucial balance is ensured by the freshness of bergamot, which enhances the overall structure and prevents the fragrance from becoming too heavy.
Shalimar is the perfect representation of GUERLAIN's olfactory signature "Guerlinade." How does this structure give it its unique identity?
Thierry: Guerlinade, established in 1921, is GUERLAIN's signature olfactory blend, composed of several recurring key fragrance ingredients, including bergamot, iris, rose, jasmine, vanilla, and tonka bean. Shalimar is one of the most outstanding expressions of Guerlinade; this structure gives the fragrance exceptional coherence, depth, and longevity, making GUERLAIN perfumes instantly recognizable.
Shalimar is often described as having an "alluring sensuality." What fragrance notes give it this unique lingering quality?
Thierry: The elements that create this hypnotic aura are layered: warm, enveloping vanilla, reminiscent of intimate skin contact; powdery iris, bringing a touch of chic and refined elegance; and finally, a duet of citrus and resins, with bergamot providing a radiant opening, while balsam (benzoin, myrrh, and incense) create a deep, mysterious atmosphere. Combined, these scents make Shalimar's finish so rich, intense, and unforgettable, leaving a mark on the skin and deeply etched in the memory of those who smell it.
The scent of amber is often associated with warmth, mystery, and exoticism. How does Shalimar express these feelings through its fragrance composition?
Thierry: Shalimar, through its skillful use of amber notes, successfully evokes warmth, mystery, and exoticism. Warmth is conjured by its classic vanilla, iris, and balsam notes, echoing a rich sensuality and the intense intensity of royal love. Exoticism is more of an evocative invitation than a literal depiction—Shalimar doesn't directly describe a distant land, but rather hints at its atmosphere; a century ago, the exquisite qualities of exotic ingredients like myrrh, incense, and sandalwood were seen as an invitation to travel, a tribute to the great Mughal Empire of India. Mystery is conveyed through the combination of jasmine, rose, and amber, creating a symbolic impression of burning incense permeating the air.
What story does Shalimar tell through its fragrance notes and finish?
Thierry: Shalimar evokes an enduring love story: the tale of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal, to whom he built the Taj Mahal. This fragrance embodies a passionate, intense, and indelible love, its finish reminiscent of the scent of a captivating woman who fully embraces her feminine charm.
Today, oud and various modern interpretations of amber fragrances are very popular. Despite the ever-evolving market, how does Shalimar maintain its authoritative position within the amber fragrance category?
Thierry: Oud and modern amber fragrances bring a more woody or spicy perspective to oriental scents. However, Shalimar remains the ultimate benchmark because it's built on a timeless balance. Its balance between freshness and luxury makes it timeless. Compared to some modern creations that might rely on exaggerated, eye-catching effects, Shalimar's amber-vanilla blend is perfect. It possesses a unique historical heritage, enriched through numerous reinterpretations, allowing it to transcend time without losing its soul. Shalimar never chases trends: it is a legend in itself.
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How do you manage to respect the classic Shalimar while giving Shalimar Essence a new life?
Delphine: I didn't intend to "reinvent" Shalimar, or deliberately create a completely different version for the centenary celebration. Instead, I wanted to return to that soul full of vanilla notes and the warmth of amber. About four years ago, I started thinking, "What if we focused more on the most captivating aspect of Shalimar?" The inspiration at that time eventually became Shalimar Millésime Vanille, and because this fragrance was so well-received, we decided to officially launch it under the name Shalimar Essence.
So what's the direction of your reinterpretation this time? How do you retain the original flavor while creating a modern feel?
Delphine: I focused on vanilla. Actually, the vanilla proportion in Shalimar back then was already quite bold, but now people are more accepting and fascinated by rich, sweet, and gourmand-like scents. So I chose to make the vanilla more prominent while reducing the proportion of bergamot, which was a key element that gave Shalimar its retro feel. I wanted it to be warmer and closer to the skin.
Amber is the soul of Shalimar. How do you make it more modern?
Delphine: I used more vanilla and added some modern musk. These musks didn't exist in the 1920s; they have a very soft, skin-friendly feel, less animalistic and more gentle and sensual. I wanted to retain the spirit of Shalimar, but at the same time make it lighter, more contemporary, and even a bit more rock 'n' roll. This version is for today's women, both sexy and gentle, enveloping like vanilla, yet powerful.
Vanilla has always been the soul of Shalimar's fragrance. What new sensations does this "over-the-top vanilla" bring?
Delphine: Vanilla, once considered too strong and sweet, has now become an embraced sensuality. This time, I used a richer proportion of vanilla than before, making the overall fragrance fuller and more layered. The "gourmet" quality of vanilla isn't just sweetness, but a warm, sensual, and addictive scent.
You used three different vanilla ingredients, including natural vanilla extract, ethyl vanillin, and vanilla tincture. What are the differences between them?
Delphine: Each ingredient plays a role. Ethyl vanillin brings an enticing, dessert-like aroma; vanilla tincture is more natural, spicy, and even has a leathery and smoky feel. These layers combine to create the familiar yet novel vanilla scent of Shalimar Essence, soft yet powerful, sweet yet profound.
Vanilla tincture is a unique technique of Guerlain. How did you use it in this piece?
Delphine: This is actually a traditional technique of the Guerlain family, originally invented by Jacques Guerlain, the creator of Shalimar. The production process is very time-consuming, requiring the vanilla pods to be cut open and soaked in alcohol for several months. The resulting vanilla aroma is very layered, with spicy, woody, and also a hint of leather and smokiness.
