The Chanel Première watch was undoubtedly groundbreaking and epoch-making when it came out in 1987, and not only because it was the brand's first watch work. At that time, watchmaking design was mostly dominated by masculine symbols. Unlike women’s watches, which were usually a reduced version of a certain men’s watch, Première watches were specially designed for women. This concept caused a great sensation at the time, and subsequently achieved great success. It is even regarded as an anthem for every woman who lives in the moment and pursues freedom. The design of the octagonal bottle cap of Chanel N°5 perfume as the dial makes everyone's eyes shine. Inspired by the brand's classic rhombic handbag, the bracelet shape made of leather and metal chains is also refreshing.
Left page (upper right, upper left, lower right): Ines de la Fressange, 1987, a publicity photo of the supermodel Ines de la Fressange on the occasion of the launch of the Chanel Première watch (lower left). Photographed by Guy Bourdin in 1987 « D'une heure à L'autre » Series of PR images. Photographers: Guy Bourdin, Karl Lagerfeld, Copyright © CHANEL
Chanel's Première first generation watch was designed by Jacques Helleu, the artistic director at the time. Since joining Chanel at the age of 18, the talented designer has been humorously questioning the meaning of fashion and working to improve the fashion taste of the industry. Even at the time when the success of the Première watch proved his extraordinary talent and talent, the man who introduced Chanel's fashion sense to the indicator industry declared: "I strive to design a design that is strong and unique enough to be timeless. source of inspiration, not just a single collection.”
The bold and elegant design of the Première watch makes it a classic of Chanel watchmaking, with great energy in its own right. Today, 35 years later, Arnaud Chastaingt, Creative Director of the Chanel Manufacture, has decided to recreate its timeless charm. The extraordinary significance of Première is far greater than its design itself as a watch. The spirit of Chanel is embedded in the design details. While eulogizing the ultimate freedom of creation, she also opened up a vision to interpret the eternal charm of time in the way of Chanel. Chastaingt believes that Première is the gene and code buried in the hearts of every Chanel designer, and it is itself a fashion lesson worth studying repeatedly.
The octagonal design of the Première's dial and beveled glass is immediately recognizable. Her geometric shape is directly derived from the design of the cork of Chanel's N°5 perfume. At the same time, it is also reminiscent of Gabrielle Chanel's scene in Paris overlooking the silhouette of Place Vendome from the Ritz Hotel. Another element that complements this-the leather and metal interwoven strap inspired by the leather chain of Chanel's iconic diamond handbag also came into being. This style is used by Première as a flexible bracelet with a delicate and smart clasp. The first edition of the Première watch released in the 1980s was such a combination of logos into a timeless design that stood the test of time.
Looking carefully at this watch, the classic black and gold color scheme is also full of fashion in the retro. Set in a gold octagonal case, the black lacquered dial stretches across its smooth surface, calmly symbolizing the passage of time. There are no numbers or indexes on the dial, no seconds or date display. Instead, under the beveled glass, two finely crafted golden hands move in this infinite microcosm to complete the guidance of time.
British actor and Chanel brand ambassador Lucy Boynton wearing a PREMIÈRE ORIGINAL EDITION watch
At the same time as the launch of the Première watch, Chanel opened two independent watch shops on Avenue Montaigne in Paris and Rue du Rhone in Geneva. In 1990, it opened a watch and high-end jewelry store in Place Vendome in Paris. There, the appearance of the first-generation Première watch brought a fresh breath. It was young and energetic, and seemed to be forever loyal to itself, with an indomitable style. In the following years, different Première watch styles demonstrated the flexibility of Première in their own unique styles. Going around, in 2022, when Chanel’s watch and high-end jewelry store at 18 Place Vendôme reopened, the Première watch returned to the spotlight with its exquisite streamlined appearance, enjoying the classics and rekindling memory.
