Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari's jewelry creative director, a woman known for acquiring the world's rarest gemstones, originally studied biology. At the age of 18, he entered the jewelry industry almost "by mistake". During the more than 40 years of growing together with Bulgari, from the jewelry procurement department to the brand's first jewelry creative director, She has the privilege of being a part of every step of the way in the creation of Bulgari's masterpieces of High Jewelry, witnessing almost daily how colored gemstones transform into stunning jewelery creations, creating High Jewelery collections such as Eden, The Garden of Wonders and more. In 2017, she received the GEM Award for Jewelry Design from Jewelers of America. Traveling the world to source the finest gemstones, conceive and design fine jewelry, Silvestri's life chapters are as colorful as gemstones. In this exclusive interview with Supreme, Silvestri will share the production process and inspiration of Bulgari jewelry, talk about her insights on the development of the jewelry industry in recent years, and briefly analyze the impact of the new crown epidemic on the luxury industry and herself.
Supreme: You were only 18 when you started working in Bulgari's gemstone department. Why did you choose Bulgari as your career starting point?
Silvestri: Simply put, passion! From a very young age, I was fascinated by jewelry. I started working at Bulgari when I was 18, but it was actually a lucky coincidence that I came to the company; I was a biology student at the time, and I was applying to temporarily replace an employee who was on maternity leave at the time. After I officially joined Bulgari, my passion and interest in gemstones grew over time.
Supreme: You have worked in Bulgari for 40 years. How have your job functions and responsibilities changed over the years?
Silvestri: Soon after I joined the Bulgari company, the Bulgari brothers (Paolo and Nicola Bulgari) saw my passion for gemstones and my natural sensitivity to color matching – I can naturally experiment with different colors And new stone combinations – they decided to support me and provide professional guidance, so I started working in Bulgari's stone purchasing department. I started traveling the world with them in search of the most beautiful gemstones in the world. Then, in 2013, I also became Bulgari's jewelry creative director!
Bulgari's first documentary "Inside the Dream" tells the story of the birth of high jewelry
Supreme: During your 40-year journey with Bulgari, what is the biggest challenge you have encountered?
Silvestri: To this day, my greatest achievement, and also my toughest challenge, has been to be able to transmit the Bulgari DNA in everything I do, but at the same time always innovate it so that it is relevant to the times. contemporary beauty.
Supreme: Can you share with us more about the creation process of Bulgari jewelry? For example, how does an abstract concept become a piece of fine jewelry that can be touched?
Silvestri: There are basically two processes, depending on what is being created. The first starts with the stones themselves; they are the main source of inspiration and they guide my creations; when the diamond is the protagonist, we use the second process. In the latter case, I would first think of a design concept, an idea before making the jewelry. Whichever creative process I choose, I'm in constant dialogue with the design team, and we're constantly collaborating and exchanging ideas to achieve the perfect result.
Supreme: We know you are always inspired by the color and shape of gemstones. What else can be your source of inspiration?
Silvestri: Besides gemstones and their natural colors and shapes, Rome is my main source of inspiration, a city full of extraordinary sights. The city offers countless possibilities, because in its thousand years of history, Rome has experienced so many historical periods, and different types of artistic influences, that you will never be able to fully grasp the whole picture of the city, Rome Will always bring you surprises! It's really amazing to me because after all these years, I'm still not bored, I'm still curious to explore this city, I never tire of finding inspiration from this remarkable city.
Supreme: Bulgari usually collaborates with stars such as Zendaya and Anne Hathaway on brand campaigns. How does a brand choose its spokesperson? What are the key qualities you look for in celebrities who work with Bulgari?
Silvestri: They all have some common characteristics, for example, they are talented, naturally elegant, and they are brave women who speak up when they should. At the same time, they always try to break through their boundaries, keep improving, learning, and becoming a better version of themselves.
Zhizun: In the past ten years, how has the jewelery industry changed in general?
Silvestri: Over the years we have seen a change in women's attitude towards jewelry and there have been many different phases and changes in tastes, for example, we have witnessed a "golden hour", a "rose gold hour", a "minimalist moment" etc. I think Bulgari has always ridden the waves, showing its creativity and audacity with innovative products, but at the same time, never forgetting to connect with the brand's origins.
Supreme: What role does sustainable development play in Bulgari's brand development?
Silvestri: It's the top priority. From mining to the manufacturing process, Bulgari is committed to ensuring the use of responsibly sourced precious metals and gemstones throughout its supply chain, with a high regard for ethical and environmental principles. Considering luxury and sustainability at the same time seemed a paradox many years ago, today it is not only possible but essential. A social situation highlighted by the COVID-19 pandemic is that consumers expect more and more luxury brands not only to provide high-quality products, but also to become model companies in terms of ethics and environmental protection. The consumer notion of luxury has shifted from focusing solely on the product to the philosophy behind it; indeed, consumer purchasing choices are now more than ever influenced by ethical, social and environmental criteria.
BVLGARI High Jewelry Serpenti necklace in platinum with 1 oval emerald (Colombia–93.83 ct), 233 buff-top emeralds (26.44ct), 253 fancy shape diamonds (26.95 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (30.15 ct).
Supreme: Across the world, women are still underrepresented in corporate leadership positions. As a female executive creative director, what do you see as the unique challenges facing working women today?
Silvestri: I can share some advice based on my personal experience. Overall, while jewelry is often associated with women, the reality is that, like many other industries, the jewelry business is often male-dominated and women who want to enter the industry must have a significant background of expertise and technical knowledge, You must also have a strong heart and determination to overcome obstacles.
Supreme: The epidemic has changed people's way of life. How does it affect Bulgari's jewelry department, and your own personal state of mind?
Silvestri: From a gem buying point of view, we had to rethink the process of working with suppliers. Normally, my team and I travel frequently in search of the most gorgeous gems in the world, but due to the pandemic we were forced to find new ways. We first contact the supplier by phone, Zoom meeting, first look at the stone, and if we are interested, we ask the supplier to ship it to Rome to make a final decision. We would never buy any gemstone if we couldn't see and touch it in person! On the other hand, because travel is more difficult, I have the opportunity and time to rediscover the beautiful city where I am, and it is also the main muse of Bulgari since its creation-Rome, and get a lot of new inspiration from it! And, I have the opportunity to spend every week at the High Jewelery Workshop in Rome, working with the goldsmiths to ensure that every step of the production process runs smoothly. Now things are getting back to normal and we've luckily started traveling again, but less than before the pandemic. We've now found a great balance between travel and office life as we realize how hectic the pace was before the pandemic!
Supreme: How do you define "luxury living"?
Silvestri: The luxury for me is being able to make my own time…because time is the only thing money can't buy!
