The moonlight was hidden in the thin clouds, and the autumn mist shrouded the red leaves all over the mountain. In the vision of Japanese singers, Buddhism, Lao Zhuang, and Shinto merged into a unique aesthetic, called Yugen. The core of this aesthetic lies in secludedness, which is the subtleness, and Xuan, the mysterious blackness. The aesthetic inspiration comes from capturing the sorrow of the present, and stepping into the mysterious realm of immortality. Shadows are introduced here instead of light, and the maple leaves are dimly gazed from the fog, and the moon is gazed from the clouds, interpreting this shadowy and mysterious beauty.
Recently, Toronto welcomed a new chef-owned restaurant, Sushi Yugen. This restaurant cleverly incorporates elements of kaiseki cuisine, focusing on light seasonings, exquisite presentation, and the seasonal changes in ingredients. We were invited to participate in the trial opening night, which was planned by Hiroyuki Sato, a well-known sushi chef from Tokyo, and worked hand in hand with the restaurant chef Kyohei Igarashi to create an unforgettable of feast.
The Japanese word "Omakase" means "please", which symbolizes trust in the chef and allows the chef to select the highest quality ingredients for the guests. It is also regarded as the highest level of tasting Japanese cuisine. This kind of cuisine emphasizes on retaining the original flavor of fish or seafood, and pays great attention to seasoning and marinating to enhance the flavor without taking away from the flavor of the main ingredients.
Dishes made with autumn and winter seasonal ingredients
This dinner was held in Itamae style, with only eight seats. We tasted 20 autumn and winter seasonal dishes, including appetizers, nigiri sushi, soups and desserts. Dinner started with the appetizers – Hairy Crab Chawanmushi, which is smooth in the mouth, paired with the rich French caviar. It not only looks exquisite, but also enhances the overall freshness due to the salty aroma; then, the seared tuna belly is plump and not greasy. The truffle slices cut on the spot add to the aroma. The sweet sea bream and matsutake mushroom soup is extremely clear, sweet and rich in taste, presenting an elegant flavor. The texture of Akashi sea bream is firm and tender, and it is seasoned with hotpot soup, which adds to the overall texture.
Next comes the nigiri sushi, and the chef cleverly designs the menu from light to strong. The rice is mixed with red vinegar, which brings out the sweetness of the fish in the warm sourness. Before serving sushi, the chef will lightly brush the fish or seafood with soy sauce. First, there is the mild-flavored cuttlefish and the wild amberjack. The former is translucent and has thick and elastic meat, while the latter has pink flesh and a delicate texture. Bonito, shirataki, and Saikyo pickled ahi marinated in miso are grilled on the surface to release a rich aroma, infusing the fresh ingredients with flavor. The three cuts of tuna are presented in order of plumpness, including naked body, midsection and belly. The oil is sweet and fragrant, especially the belly melts in your mouth.
Different types of seafood come one after another, the Che Hai Lao is elastic, and the shrimp is rich and sweet; the salmon eggs are pickled and delicious, and they are crystal clear and explode as soon as you eat them; the horse dung sea urchin is orange-yellow, with a tender texture and a delicious taste. Rich and sweet; the texture of the hole is soft and juicy, accompanied by a sweet sauce; the tamagoyaki is dipped in sugar and seared until the surface is caramelized, giving it a dense and delicate texture. All seafood is personally selected by Sato and specially shipped from Toyosu Market in Japan. Finally, the evening was finished with a sweet but not greasy chestnut dessert.
Incorporating kaiseki elements
Chef Igarashi is passionate about cooking, having studied at the Culinary Academy in Yamagata Prefecture, located on Japan's southern coastline in Tohoku. After completing his studies, he went to Tokyo and Yokohama, where he trained as a kaiseki and sushi chef for 15 years, and then worked overseas for nine years. Igarashi shared with us: "When I was a child, I saw my father working hard but rarely smiling. This inspired me to pursue a life that I really like, and share love, passion and happiness with others, and bring them unforgettable experiences. and happiness.”
He further said: "I stick to authentic traditional Japanese cuisine, but like to present traditional dishes 'my way'. In addition to my sushi training, my kaiseki training and my nine years of traveling to four countries have allowed me to Presented in a unique way." Before coming to Toronto, he worked as a chef at a chef-owned restaurant and won one Michelin star for seven consecutive years. Having overseas work experience allows him to dare to try and form a unique interpretation and style of Japanese cuisine. He emphasizes that he does not like to repeat others.
Chef Igarashi integrates the experience of kaiseki cuisine into sushi making. He believes: "The core principles of kaiseki cuisine and sushi are very different. Kaiseki cuisine focuses on the balance of various ingredients and flavors. I believe that the core principles of kaiseki cuisine will be integrated into sushi making." Integrating elements into sushi will bring a unique flavor and perspective." Regarding the reason for choosing to move to Toronto, he said: "I love Canada and want to share the joy of sushi with the world through my creativity of natural flavors and unique techniques. Fusion, enriching the city’s Japanese cuisine landscape, I am eager to challenge the limits of food and bring a new perspective to the traditional chef-driven experience.”
